Eat Ottoman-style in a truly traditional restaurant, sitting at low tables in a reconstructed oda (guest room) in an old Ottoman-era house. You are surrounded by shelves with dishes, strings of garlic and peppers and old photographs. The best thing is to allow the waiters to suggest a succession of appetizers and mains.

The food is fresh and delicious (try the lakror ne sac oven-baked pie), unforgettable even after washing it all down with several glasses of their home-made raki. Find it down a little alley on the north side of the road between Rr. e Barrikadeve and Sheshi Avni Rustemi.